Montana Cafe

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  I've been through Cook more times that I can recall, but other than an afternoon spent siting a new tower I've never stopped for more than gas.  This changed on Tuesday when I ventured off of US 53 and discovered the Montana Cafe a few blocks down River Street.  My sister and I were looking to get lunch and the McDonald's on 53 was not an option.  We cruised down the main drag and the Montana appeared to the best, and maybe the only, option for lunch in Cook.  I parked in front of the building and we walked on in.  There were an assortment of tables and booths along the walls and a counter in the back, and the waitress told us to go ahead and sit wherever we felt like it.  The atmosphere was warm and inviting, and I liked the antiquey feel of the decor.  
  
  We were given menus right away and explained the specials, and I asked for an iced tea.  It was brought out shortly, and I was first surprised because the menu specifically stated that iced tea was limited to one refill.  This glass was about twelve ounces, and I was wondering why they would be so stingy with their tea.  The reason, I soon discerned, is that this is some of the best iced tea ever.  One taste and I could tell that it was homemade, probably in small batches.  Memories of my mom's fresh sun tea during the summer came washing over me, and I would have likely drank a gallon if given the option.  
  
  The menu contained many of the standard small-town diner items - burgers, chicken sandwiches and so on.  But on closer examination I saw that the ingredients offered were a cut above the standard.  The breads were differentiated (black bean, dark rye, etc.).  I really had a difficult time deciding on which option to go with, finally settling on a pastrami melt with chips.  It was amazing - the swiss was melted perfectly on the raw onion, and the pastrami was deliciously cured without being too fatty.  The toasted kaiser roll had just the right amount of heft while being light and just slightly sweet.  The kicker was a spicy brown mustard, which completely tied it all together.  This was the best pastrami sandwich I've had that didn't come from my own kitchen.  My only complaint was that the onion and mustard weren't spread over the whole of the sandwich, a minor quibble.  My sister opted for the Italian po'boy on my suggestion.  It was an Italian sausage patty with sauteed onions and peppers, topped with pepperjack cheese.  My sister managed about three-quarters of it before giving up to fullness and passing the rest to me.  It was spicy and delicious, but given the greasiness of Italian sausage I can see why a whole sandwich would be prohibitively filling.  I wasn't too impressed with the chips - standard rippled potato chips - but I wasn't there for the chips.
  
  My complaint is with the service.  While we were brought our food in short order, there was no follow-up afterward.  I really wanted to get that sole allowable refill on my iced tea about halfway through the pastrami sandwich, but the waitress was nowhere to be seen.  I tried flagging her down when she brought a massive burger plate to a booth near us to no avail.  Finally, after we had both finished our meals excepting for a few stray chips, the waitress came back with the check and asked if we needed anything else.  I asked for a refill and she hesitatingly agreed, taking my glass.  My sister and I sat there for another six or seven minutes, finishing up the chip crumbs, and finally gave up on getting that second iced tea.  When I went up to the counter to pay, the waitress didn't seem to remember that I had a tea coming to me, and that cost her a buck on the tip and a star on my review.  Despite all that drama, I'd stop by the Montana again without qualm.  It's definitely a cut above the rest.

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  Posted on 08.06.09 Bruce Daniel K.

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