Picture this scene. Â From Calexico or El Centro you are bombing up Cal 111 along the eastern side of the Salton Sea. Â You have just been worked over at the Migra checkpoint and are getting hungry for lunch, Palm Springs now being too far away to make a run for. Â The sign says that Mecca is just a few miles ahead. Â You approach it with dread.
Mecca turns out to be a Mexican town in the Sonoran Desert that just happens to be on the US side of the border. Â Not a gringo in the place. Â The town exists as a residential center for migrant agricultural labor that works in the huge latifundia surrounding Mecca, mostly picking sweet bell peppers. Â USDA approved signs are on the dorms. Â The stoop labor working out in the fields reminds you of antebellum Mississippi, except you can see that they are driving cars better than yours. Â There is not even a McDonald's in town, not even a Dairy Queen. Â Where are you going to eat?
So we cruised the town (not much to cruise) and found Ofelia's Mexican Restaurant, a couple of blocks off the main road. Â Not much on the outside to recommend it, but it seemed a tad cleaner looking than the rest of town.
What a find! Â The owner is a chilango, and his wife and children still live in the DF. Â We now realize that that is why we stopped there -- we had lived in the DF for 3 years, and this reminded us of the neighborhood spots we used to eat at.. Â He sports a county A for kitchen clenliness, and it was. Â Inside a few tables, but outside and hidden from the street a shaded seating area. Â Just the right temperature (at least in November).
There was a printed menu, but not of much use. Â His clientele is almost all migrant labor, and he cooks to their regional tastes depending on what labor crew is in town that week. Â He had just made chiles rellenos, so we had that with the fixings. Â Delicious, light, real. Â The best beans and rice we have had for years -- with no later gaseous effects. Â Great home-made horchata and jamaica and tamarindo. Â (He does have a license, but offers only Corona and Bud Light, so bring your own if you can stand to drink alcohol in that heat). Â We felt like we had gone back to Mexico, not eating in a Cal-Mex place.
Later, eating in the Palm Springs tourist joints, we realized that it might even be a good idea to drive back to Mecca for good Mexican food. Â It is that good. Â Try it.