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    Forty miles south of Albany, this section of the northern Catskills is dotted with small resorts, Palatine descendants, and small Hasidic summer camps, each containing muted burps of cognitive dissonance. But it's really gorgeous and worth a summer detournement.

    We blundered into Haus Waldeck and will probably never find it again.
    They served the best weisswurst I've ever eaten, made by a local butcher to Waldeck's specification. Rox had fabulous pierogies and an equally good smoothie. We sat at their outdoor patio, in a garden filled with columbines and hummingbirds.

    If the menu at Waldeck's is Frank Gehry, Wolff's Biergarten is a box of Legos.

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